Back in the Big Waves

A new swell hit over the weekend and quite a few of the big wave surfers were in town for the waves at Mavericks. The waves were little slow coming in the morning, but continued to fill in throughout the day. There were sets pushing over 40' during the day. At one point there were 48 surfers in the line-up. It was like rush hour traffic, frustrations were high as so many people were in the water all trying to get the same wave.

I jumped in the water and it took me about an hour to get a wave with so many people clogging the line-up. I did paddle for one that I missed only to turn around and see one of biggest waves of the day. I kept my head down and paddled as fast as I could toward this behemoth thinking , "If this wave lands on me it could be really bad, my breath holding will be tested as far as it can go." I focused on staying relaxed and focused on my paddling . The wave got to me and the lip of this 40 footer was coming down toward me. I did a push up off my board and plunged under the water as the guillotine of water just missed as it passed over me. I could feel the clean green water and the wave sucking up, I spread my arms out to try and keep myself from being dragged into the explosion by my board. My board started to drag and then the pull was so strong it was dragging me through the water like a fishing lure. It then got really strong and something broke. It felt like my leash. I then came to the surface and a rescue jetski came over and picked me up so I didn't get washed into the rocks. I was worried about my new board, but as we got to the channel I could see another lifeguard on his jetski retrieving it. I was lucky, the leash tie strings broke, so I replaced those and paddled back into the lineup. After about an hour of trying to get another wave the wind had started to blow hard, so I decided to get some breakfast.

Oh Yea! My hip resurfacing was a huge success. It is absolutely the best thing for continuing to live my life with no reservations about what I can and can't do. This was my first big wave test, and I would have to say that it feels great. Training on the SUP has improved my balance and stamina. I found that the SUP got me back in the water quickly, kept me occupied and brought me back into better shape than before the surgery. I now believe the more people we share this with, the healthier we will all be while enjoying the ocean. So, I've been shaping a wide range of SUPs, for beginners through big wave chargers. We also rent them at the shop complete with lessons and training out in the calm waters of the harbor. As for me, I've shaped a SUP big wave gun to charge on the bigger days.

I still get questions daily about the surgery and recovery, and I have to say I am very glad I did it. Some people have been inspired to get help for their own pain issues, and that's been gratifying. I've been amazed by my new-found flexibility and freedom from pain. And now with the winter swells hitting, I am stoked to get out and feel the power of the ocean.

Stay stoked, Jeff.

Photographer Ed Grant took the photo above of Mavericks on Saturday, Oct. 7. Check out the crowd.

Hello Again!

Sorry for the lapse in writing. Life got kinda crazy when I found out they had removed me from the contest that I started (http://jeffclarksurf.blogspot.com). Lots of meetings and not enough surfing. I have decided to work on the things that I can change. For me, that is time in the water, what I eat and the good that can come out of choosing to have a good attitude about everything. You might not come out of the barrel on the your best wave of the day, but how lucky are you to be surfing.

The last month has been one of decisions. Do you get caught up in the huge rip of negativity or use it to empower you to rise above it all. You just gotta believe in yourself , do the right thing and live well.

I am really stoked to be back in the water and making boards. I've been participating in fund-raising events for Cystic Fibrosis, "Pipeline to a Cure," to raise money for research for this deadly disease. I also am working with San Francisco Museum of Modern Art (SF MOMA) on their latest exhibit on surf art, life and culture. I have a display in the MOMA windows in downtown San Francisco, as well as 15 boards up at their Artist's Gallery in Fort Mason, alongside some great surf-related art and photography. What an honor.

My hip at this point is ready for the heavy training. I'm feeling better than I have in several years. And I am hearing from a lot of people who have similar stories or are looking for solutions to their health issues. Glad my little blog can help inspire a few others, and really glad to hear the success stories from those of you who have been down this road before.

All the best to everyone out there. Live big, jeff

Getting Busy

It seems the more active I get the less time I spend in front of the computer. Went to San Diego last week to work on some new boards. We hit that last south swell head on. SUP'd some of the reefs in Encinitas. It seems that the kelp has come back with a vengeance over the last 5years. It was windy on the outside and smooth on the inside. The same kelp cycle has occurred at Mavericks as well with kelp so thick you can't swim through it.

I had gone to San Diego to participate in a gathering for Pipeline to a Cure for the battle against Cystic Fibrosis. All who attended had a chance to SUP with instruction from one of the best, Dave Kalama.

I decided to do the coast drive up 101 instead of 5. We saw south swell following us all the way up the coast. Sure enough it was here in HMB when we awoke Monday morning. I was so busy I didn't get in the water intil the last hour before dark. The best day I have seen in years was yesterday. The jetty had 6 to 8 foot A frame peaks and was really consistent.

The highlight of the day was picking up Greg and Laura Noll at the airport and driving down the coast through Pacifica to Princeton. We drove to the jetty, managed to see one of the best sets of the day. Legendary surfer Greg Noll is in town for the inaugural Mavericks Film Festival this week. His film, "Search for Surf" will be one of the films shown at the event, starting tonight at the Oceano Hotel in Princeton by the Sea. Greg and Laura really like the Oceano Hotel, which sits right on the harbor with easy walking to the Pier and restaraunts (and Mavericks Surf Shop). Greg has fished the West Coast for years after he put surfing on the back burner and shared some great stories about navigating through giant storm surf into the Pillar Point harbor at night. He'll be sharing more stories and doing a Q&A at the film festival, so be there if you can.

take care,jeff

Six Week Check Up

Rolled up to UCSF to see Dr. Vail to have him give me the litmus test. I did some range of motion stretches that I couldn't do before. He said, "I think you're way ahead of the curve." Stoked. We talked about surfing, and Cassandra showed him a video of the surf we had over the weekend. He was happy to see his work going to good use.

We are off today to Newport to do a paddle for Pipeline to a Cure. Dave Kalama, Mickey & Peggy Munoz, Jericho Popler, Jason Lezak (Olympic gold swimmer) and others will be there to support the battle against Cystic Fibrosis. Studies have shown that saltwater helps the lungs and provides relief for those with cystic fibrosis, and so surfing is a natural way to reach out to those with the disease, have some fun and find relief until there is a cure. We went to one of their fundraising events last year and it was amazing to see the strength of those fighting that battle. It was inspiring to see the drive and spirit it takes to deal with this disease every day of life.

I must say it makes what I have dealt with seem so insignificant.

Everyone stay safe and get some of the new south that is hitting the coast right now.
Will be back up for the Mavericks Film Festival at the Oceano Resort in Half Moon Bay on the 17th. Check it out. Greg Noll and I will be there to greet guest.
All the best, jeff

South Swell

Woke up to a nice south swell on Friday morning. I couldn't help myself...first time in the water in 39 days. We surfed a really fun south facing reef on our stand up paddle boards. It is the best for me because I can't do the jump up like I want to. The risk of the unknown or unthinkable happening is much greater riding a short board.

My first wave felt like riding my old favorite bicycle. I wish I could say that I eased into the first bottom turn to see what it felt like on my new hardware that is in the right hip, but no, I went out into the flat from the peak and powered a bottom turn straight up into the lip. No problem, so stoked!!

I actually don't have any regrets about doing the surgery. The work Dr. Vail did at UCSF on my hip is great, and I can feel the progression every couple of days with things like range of motion that I didn't have before. Lance Harriman at Potrero Physical Therapy and their staff are working me over, making sure I am getting the hard to get to muscles strong. I am also benefiting from the work that The Holistic Health Center and Hide Minami have done on me. He is an accupuncturist that works on some of the bay area's highest profile professional athletes. He is very good.

The swell filled in on Saturday, and we surfed for another 3 hrs. It feels good to be that sore. Surfed with my wife Cassandra and my son Kevin. I was still on the SUP board. The waves were about 6ft on the face when the sets came through. Hope everyone got some.

Heading for my six-week check up today. I think I am ahead of the curve on the recovery, just have to pace myself. Slow and sure is the best bet, unless the waves are really good.

jeff

Getting in the water

Talked to Palo Alto Research Foundation yesterday, about the science of waves. It took me a moment to settle into my opening thoughts because we watched a clip of Mavericks going off. I got so amped about the waves that I was watching that it kind of scattered me for a bit. So stoked to have no pain in my hip. Going out Stand Up Paddling with my wife Cassandra this morning for the first time since the surgery. It will be 39 days since salt water on my skin but who's counting.
I think we will be taking the Go Pro to give you a visual report.

Distractions........I can do more

Sorry for my lagging on the posting. I have just been getting more active each day, which I do push a little, so when I get some dinner and start to chill, I am wiped out. Then it is off to the races again the next morning.
My son Kevin was here at the house doing some work for us. When he finished he said,"it is time for your work out." We went through his warm up that he does with all his clients (he was recently certified as a personal trainer) before he starts a work out with them. We finished the warm up and moved into the garage where I have a Total Gym, a Pull Up/Dip/Push Up/Knee Raiser tower. Next to that is a spin cycle. His style of training is Cross Fit, which uses more reps than bulk. It also utilizes your own body weight during the drills. The Total Gym is what I used to rehab my back fusion 7yrs ago. It is doing well. There is so much you can do on the Total Gym with such ease, it is my favorite as far as equipment goes. We are really working on the core strength to stabilize the back and the legs, relieving fatigue and stress.
I have noticed over the last week that my right leg is coming along well. I can put socks and shoes on that foot by myself. If the flexibility continues at the rate that I am going, I may hit my full range of motion in 3 months no problem.
I can say that I am seeing the direct results from the training that I am doing. The body will respond faster than you think, it is up to you to give it a chance. Go For It....you wont be disappointed. - jeff

Stronger by the day

Sticking to the routine of physical therapy is paying dividends. I am walking and climbing hills. Spending time in the morning on the spin cycle is giving me the flexibility to put on my own socks. Ha! I am going to get in the water as soon as I can put a bootie on my right foot without help (putting on a 5mm bootie is not an easy task when you're in pain).

I've been able to check in at my surf shop and help customers choose the right board. I shape my own boards, ranging from Mavericks Big Wave Guns and fun guns to short boards, from longboards to the Flying Fish (pictured here). The Flying Fish model that I shape seems to be the best seller for the smaller summer surf. It looks retro, but I put a single-to-double -concave bottom with a double wing swallow tail. Add the glass Speed Dialer fins and you've got a magic carpet for the summer. I can't shape boards for a while during this recovery, as it puts a lot of pressure on the joint and I can't stand for that long yet. I'm looking forward to getting back to work in the shaping room sometime soon.

Lately my son Kevin (25 yrs old) has picked up windsurfing, which has got me pretty stoked to get back into it. Back in '83 the first Windsurfing World Cup came to San Francisco, and the wave sailing event was held at Waddell Creek. I spent a week watching guys rip waves apart on small sail boards. I got into it and did almost all of the sailing events from here to Santa Barbara. The '84 O'Niell Classic, one of my favorites, was a 17-mile race in the SF Bay on a sailboard. It was summer time and blown out small surf, so this was a great option to surfing.

I can't wait to get back in the water.

All the best to those who are following this blog,jeff

Schulz Family Foundation Fundraiser

Spent a couple of days in the sun of Santa Rosa helping to raise funds for charity. The golf tournament was a great turnout with the likes of actor/surfer Gregory Harrison (my personal favorite), Cheryl Ladd, Goldie Hawn, Kurt Russell, Greg Itzin, Jim Plunkett, Dwight Clark, Jerry Rice, Jim Harbough, Tommy Smothers, Cheech Marin, among others who turned out to raise funds for Sonoma Children's Charities. I look forward to getting in the water soon with Greg Harrison, who can surf. I may have had a little too much fun at the Schulz event at Mayacama Country Club. The body is feeling the effects of too much activity (a little putting and chipping, and maybe a couple of swings I shouldn't have taken).

Today I spent the morning in the acupuncture studio. Hide Minami of the Holistic Health Center is the man. Hide also is a Mavericks regular. I have seen Hide over the years and results are second to none. After examination again he asked how much coffee I drink as it relates to the tight tendons and muscles. He told me if I quit I may cut my recovery time by one third. Out with the coffee!! He said my liver is healthier than the last time I was seen, that is a direct effect of quitting drinking. He also gave me Milk Thistle to strengthen my liver because I am still on some pain meds.
I have been given my recovery orders and am going to stick to them.

Off to the city for PT with Lance Harriman in the morning.

The surf is good today, but I am not going to think about it.

thanks,jeff
ps: Hi Greg

Progress

It is fun to see the body respond to the exercises that physical therapist Lance Harriman (Portrero PT in San Francisco) has prescribed for me. I am doing them every morning and night. The light at the end at the tunnel is still off in the distance but I can see it. I have been walking as much as I can, and learning to walk without a limp.

Went to the Half Moon Bay High School Surf Club Luau on Saturday night. There was a good turnout and the surf team did really well this season, placing 1st in quite a few categories. It is fun to support the team. When I went to HMBHS we had no surf team, and it is sad now that the school doesn't recognize surfing as a sport. Half Moon Bay is where one of the biggest surfing events in the world is held. Go figure! Last time I checked surfing was the sport of kings.

Make a difference everyday, take care, jeff

P.S. We received the first inpatient hospital statement, itemized and 4 pages long, totaling $71,766.90!! That doesnt include the doctors' bills. It's like a "retail" rate. UCSF (like most hospitals) will negotiate a cash rate, so you don't get hit with the full price. We were able to do that, since my insurance company wouldn't cover the procedure. Hopefully, after the $3k deductible, they will cover the surgeon and anesthesiologist. Lesson learned...after paying over $500 month for 5 years for insurance: read the fine print.

Physical Therapy

I had my first PT appointment yesterday with Lance Harriman of Potrero Physical Therapy in San Francisco. The comfort zone with whom you work is very important to me. Questions like, do they know the life style that I come from (as an athlete) and will this be the most direct approach to a full recovery?
I have known Lance for close to 10 yrs if not more. Wow how time flies! We met at Mav's, as he was one of the surfers from SF that made the trek down the coast to surf Mavericks. He surfs really well at Ocean Beach, SF, and if you can do that, the transition to Mavericks can be a good one if you can embrace twice the mass and intensity of the wave.
Lance was able to make that transition as has become one of the really solid guys in the water on even the biggest of days.
With that said, working with Lance will be a pleasure, he knows exactly where I want to go and the performance demands that I am going to expect out of my body.
I have a list of exercises that we worked out yesterday that will lay the foundation for the more advanced PT down the road as I get stronger.
Looking out at the ocean from the house, it is not so hard to put the time into exercises, knowing the waves will be small all summer. I will be ready for the first winter swell that hits.
Off to work I go.

Why the Blog?

Over the last few days I have been asked several times, why the blog? After giving it some thought, it is kind of like when I talked the first guys into coming down from the city to check out Mavericks. The possibility of surfing out there with someone else, the excitement of a new experience. The possibility that the waves my new guests would ride would give them the same thrill that Mavericks gave me. When they looked off the cliff they looked everywhere. Dave and Tom couldn't see where the wave was. It was new territory for them. A set came through and it became clear to all: What an amazing wave.

I have lived with the pain in my hip over the last 3 years that, at times, put me down. The grind of pain was wearing me thin, and I am sure there were times when I was not the most pleasant person to be around. I really like to be positive and happy. Massage therapists, Chiropractors, Accupuncture, Osteopaths, Spine injections, you name it, I searched for a remedy to have a pain-free day. All the while, it wasn't my back that was the problem, as we all thought. It came down to being referred to orthopedic specialist Dr. Nick Colyvas. My good rugby mate said he was the man. Dr. Colyvas took x-rays of my hip, as it was obvious to him that this was the problem. His first response was to show the x-rays to a colleague of his.

I made an appointment with Dr. Vail at UCSF. We talked about the options of hip replacement or a newer procedure called a hip resurfacing. He explained that the resurfacing preserves the femur and is far less invasive compared to the hip replacement, and if successful, will allow me to keep surfing the way I want to surf. I don't want to simply be pain-free in a rocker... I want to rock! These procedures are making huge strides, and the benefits are adding years to an active body. I jumped at the chance to live life and not resign myself to the couch, trying to hold on to the memory of the good years. I am sorry but there's no way I'm living in the past when there is a whole future ahead. This blog , I hope will inspire those of you out there who are questioning the risk of surgery.

If you are living with pain and want to (and can) lose it, take a chance to catch the wave of medical technology that can let you live your dream 'til the day you ride your last wave. Life is opportunity, if you are open to it. I am going until there is nothing left in the tank.

Live Your Dreams! thanks,jeff

Mom

As I have been sitting here thinking about Mom, I started to think about the early days on the coastside.My mom (Dyan) took care of the family house 100ft from the beach here in Miramar,Half Moon Bay. Four kids to watch and she was all about having fun. We spent alot of the time at the beach on the nice days. When she said go outside and play that meant I was heading to the beach. My brother and I got our first wetsuits in 1966, they didn't even have nylon in them anywhere. They were all rubber and we used corn starch to make them slippery enough to get them on.
When it was time for dinner mom would come to the edge of the 20' cliff and call us.
Other adventures were taking the VW Bug up into the hills in the back of El Granada. There was a gun club up there and lots of dirt roads all over. My brother and I would stand on the running boards outside the car and hold on with our hands, in the open sun roof. My mom would be jamming down the dirt roads and on the turns we would yell, skid mom, skid. She would oblige with a nice slide around the corner. We had quite alot of free form fun with mom. Maybe this is where I get the risk reward from.
I love my Mom and the," live for adventure she gave me".
I am looking forward to getting better and on to the new chapter of adventures in my life.

Happy Mothers Day

Happy Mothers Day,
All the best to everyone out there and thank you for the support.
jeff

Getting Out

Each day I find that I have a little more energy. A little less pain and more endurance. I can feel that the more I do and push the more my body is responding. Going up and down stairs is getting easier, but I still really have to watch my step. One wrong move and its curtains batman.
Beautiful day in Half Moon Bay today, the wind is up so the kite surfing will be on.
thanks,jeff

Rear Window?

Reminiscent of the old movie, "Rear Window," Jeff checks the surf from the living room and, lo and behold, Mavericks is breaking! Nothing huge, but enough to give a few guys some good waves out there.

8 Days

There is a fine line between feeling good and crashing because I didn't stay on schedule with the pain meds. Went for another long walk today, checked the surf , it was 4ft but junky.
Right now it seems like it is not happening fast enough, I know the drill though, just be patient.
Anything worth doing is worth doing well and when the time is right to push back on the hip I will be ready.

Morning Walk

Some pain meds are just to strong, changed to a lighter dose and no more headaches. I don't know why but today I decided to go for a walk to the store. Cassandra,Pico(awsome pet) and my cane/golf club. After about 10 minutes into the walk I realized the movement I now have in my right leg is so smooth and the range of motion is much better. I am not pushing it by any means, but I can tell it is going to be so much better. What I am up against is the soft tissue healing up, it has only been six days. Once the healing part of the cut muscles and all they had to go through to get to the hip joint, heals, some of the pain I am feeling now will subside.
The pain that I feel now is what is keeping me from doing to much to soon, a good thing.
Thanks again for the support,jeff

Sunday May 3rd

I want so much for the time to pass to start working on the rehab that I convinced myself today was Monday. All good things will come in good time. I heard the waves are good today so I may have to go to the beach to feel the energy and smell the salt air. The lure that keeps you coming back.
Really enjoying watching golf, it is quiet and that is about as much as I can move at this point.
The weather outside is not that inviting,more rain.....guess I am lucky to do the hip now rather than later.
Need to give myself a shot, will catch up later
thanks for the support,jeff

Home Sweet Home

From the time I checked in for pre-op at UCSF on April 28th, it was all go. It really started to hit home -- I had been so focused on being pain-free in the future, that I hadn't really thought about the actual surgery. There I was, ready to go.

Dr. Vail had been referred to me by Dr. Nick Colyvas, who was referred to me by one of my best mates as well as one of the best rugby players from Wales, Gary Williams. If these guys have been putting the rugby boys back together, they have seen it all. These are the kind of docs that I want working on me. I want to be back in the line up this winter. Dr. Vail and his team are the best, so I was ready to do this.

I remember being on the gurney, being wheeled into the OR and being parked next to the operating table. Someone later asked me if I remembered the operating room because I was talking for a while. I don't remember. I woke up in the PACU with all the rest of the victims of modern medicine. It seemed like a half hour had passed, not the two and a half hours of surgery time. My left leg was tingling like when you sleep on it and the circulation is cut off. The right leg had no sensation or signs of life for about 30 minutes.

It wasn't until I did the animated virtual operation that I really understood how deep this operation is, on the largest bone in the human body. The feeling started to come back, as did some more fun and games I will fill you in on later.

I made it home today. Time to rest. More later.