Wednesday, June 17, 2009

Getting Busy

It seems the more active I get the less time I spend in front of the computer. Went to San Diego last week to work on some new boards. We hit that last south swell head on. SUP'd some of the reefs in Encinitas. It seems that the kelp has come back with a vengeance over the last 5years. It was windy on the outside and smooth on the inside. The same kelp cycle has occurred at Mavericks as well with kelp so thick you can't swim through it.

I had gone to San Diego to participate in a gathering for Pipeline to a Cure for the battle against Cystic Fibrosis. All who attended had a chance to SUP with instruction from one of the best, Dave Kalama.

I decided to do the coast drive up 101 instead of 5. We saw south swell following us all the way up the coast. Sure enough it was here in HMB when we awoke Monday morning. I was so busy I didn't get in the water intil the last hour before dark. The best day I have seen in years was yesterday. The jetty had 6 to 8 foot A frame peaks and was really consistent.

The highlight of the day was picking up Greg and Laura Noll at the airport and driving down the coast through Pacifica to Princeton. We drove to the jetty, managed to see one of the best sets of the day. Legendary surfer Greg Noll is in town for the inaugural Mavericks Film Festival this week. His film, "Search for Surf" will be one of the films shown at the event, starting tonight at the Oceano Hotel in Princeton by the Sea. Greg and Laura really like the Oceano Hotel, which sits right on the harbor with easy walking to the Pier and restaraunts (and Mavericks Surf Shop). Greg has fished the West Coast for years after he put surfing on the back burner and shared some great stories about navigating through giant storm surf into the Pillar Point harbor at night. He'll be sharing more stories and doing a Q&A at the film festival, so be there if you can.

take care,jeff


  1. Good seeing you last night Jeff, you're already looking like you're ready to charge Mavs.

  2. Hi Jeff. I just learned of your surgery. Great that you're doing well. I've rehab-ed 2 patients that underwent the same procedure from Dr. V. He does great work. The recovery is all up to you. My advice is to be Goldilocks....don't do too much and don't do too JUST the right amount of activities. Best of luck and I hope you're back in the water really soon.

  3. Hi Jeff. My name is Mel and I wanted to send you my blessing for a speedy healing so you can get back in the water. I wanted to share my respect for you for truly doing what you love and being great at it. I was diagnosed with CF when I was just a little one and found that there is no other way to live life but thankful, happy, and to keep riding the waves like a constant adventure.

    Thank you also for your support in Pipe Line For A Cure.

    All the best,

    Mel Kotlyar

  4. Thanks for the support, doc! Riding the stand-up paddle has been great rehab, but now it's time to work on flexibility and strength. Looking forward to charging again soon. jeff