South Swell

Woke up to a nice south swell on Friday morning. I couldn't help myself...first time in the water in 39 days. We surfed a really fun south facing reef on our stand up paddle boards. It is the best for me because I can't do the jump up like I want to. The risk of the unknown or unthinkable happening is much greater riding a short board.

My first wave felt like riding my old favorite bicycle. I wish I could say that I eased into the first bottom turn to see what it felt like on my new hardware that is in the right hip, but no, I went out into the flat from the peak and powered a bottom turn straight up into the lip. No problem, so stoked!!

I actually don't have any regrets about doing the surgery. The work Dr. Vail did at UCSF on my hip is great, and I can feel the progression every couple of days with things like range of motion that I didn't have before. Lance Harriman at Potrero Physical Therapy and their staff are working me over, making sure I am getting the hard to get to muscles strong. I am also benefiting from the work that The Holistic Health Center and Hide Minami have done on me. He is an accupuncturist that works on some of the bay area's highest profile professional athletes. He is very good.

The swell filled in on Saturday, and we surfed for another 3 hrs. It feels good to be that sore. Surfed with my wife Cassandra and my son Kevin. I was still on the SUP board. The waves were about 6ft on the face when the sets came through. Hope everyone got some.

Heading for my six-week check up today. I think I am ahead of the curve on the recovery, just have to pace myself. Slow and sure is the best bet, unless the waves are really good.

jeff