Monday, July 20, 2009

Hello Again!

Sorry for the lapse in writing. Life got kinda crazy when I found out they had removed me from the contest that I started ( Lots of meetings and not enough surfing. I have decided to work on the things that I can change. For me, that is time in the water, what I eat and the good that can come out of choosing to have a good attitude about everything. You might not come out of the barrel on the your best wave of the day, but how lucky are you to be surfing.

The last month has been one of decisions. Do you get caught up in the huge rip of negativity or use it to empower you to rise above it all. You just gotta believe in yourself , do the right thing and live well.

I am really stoked to be back in the water and making boards. I've been participating in fund-raising events for Cystic Fibrosis, "Pipeline to a Cure," to raise money for research for this deadly disease. I also am working with San Francisco Museum of Modern Art (SF MOMA) on their latest exhibit on surf art, life and culture. I have a display in the MOMA windows in downtown San Francisco, as well as 15 boards up at their Artist's Gallery in Fort Mason, alongside some great surf-related art and photography. What an honor.

My hip at this point is ready for the heavy training. I'm feeling better than I have in several years. And I am hearing from a lot of people who have similar stories or are looking for solutions to their health issues. Glad my little blog can help inspire a few others, and really glad to hear the success stories from those of you who have been down this road before.

All the best to everyone out there. Live big, jeff

1 comment:

  1. Hi Jeff, I'm a big fan of yours and big wave surfing. Got the chance to see Mavericks a couple of years ago and just this Saturday, saw your incredible boards at the SFMOMA show. So awesome. Glad to hear you're stoked and back in the water. Hope to stop by your talk next Saturday at Fort Mason. Thanks for the inspiration and for living big!