As I have been sitting here thinking about Mom, I started to think about the early days on the coastside.My mom (Dyan) took care of the family house 100ft from the beach here in Miramar,Half Moon Bay. Four kids to watch and she was all about having fun. We spent alot of the time at the beach on the nice days. When she said go outside and play that meant I was heading to the beach. My brother and I got our first wetsuits in 1966, they didn't even have nylon in them anywhere. They were all rubber and we used corn starch to make them slippery enough to get them on.
When it was time for dinner mom would come to the edge of the 20' cliff and call us.
Other adventures were taking the VW Bug up into the hills in the back of El Granada. There was a gun club up there and lots of dirt roads all over. My brother and I would stand on the running boards outside the car and hold on with our hands, in the open sun roof. My mom would be jamming down the dirt roads and on the turns we would yell, skid mom, skid. She would oblige with a nice slide around the corner. We had quite alot of free form fun with mom. Maybe this is where I get the risk reward from.
I love my Mom and the," live for adventure she gave me".
I am looking forward to getting better and on to the new chapter of adventures in my life.
What Is Hip Resurfacing?
Check out the animated virtual hip resurfacing showing every step of the procedure, and test your surgical skills. Pretty cool.
Moms are great. I wish you a speedy recovery and I know I will see you out there this next season. I've followed your Mavericks sessions since the late 80's. You inspired me to charge larger surf. Now I have found a new passion and entered the eveloution to Stand Up. I've addes your site to my blog site to share and pass the stoke. Get well and thanks for the courage and inspiration you pass to all.
ReplyDeleteMahalo Glen
www.atlanticpaddlesurfing.blogspot.com
Get Well Soon Jeff! You da man.
ReplyDeleteStephen
Santa Cruz
Get well Jeff, Thanks for the moms remeberance. Mine definately helped the early access to the wonder of the surf! Your details of the new hip help too. My 53 year old hips will need to be updated sometime. All the skating and surfing really roughens-up the labrums. I appreciate your journal and encourage you to push thru the healing and PT this summer!
ReplyDeleteMike
Hey, Jeff! Mike, the commenter above, turned me onto your blog. I had knee replacement three weeks ago. I, too, am laid up while everyone else is surfing. Physical therapy is brutal, but necessary. I can't say I'm having a good time with this journey. However, it's better than osteoarthritis for the rest of my life. I'm blogging about my experience right now too. The Surf and the FuryYour mom is a wonderful woman!
ReplyDeleteHey Jeff, You're a legend!! I'm sure that doesn't matter to you but I am sure you will be 100% again fairly soon. It's in your nature and your heart.
ReplyDeleteI tried to be like your mom for my daughter. She was skiing at 2 1/2 and riding on my motorcycle at 3 1/2.
We'll see you around town with your golf club.
Peace Bro,
Michael Wong