Getting Busy

It seems the more active I get the less time I spend in front of the computer. Went to San Diego last week to work on some new boards. We hit that last south swell head on. SUP'd some of the reefs in Encinitas. It seems that the kelp has come back with a vengeance over the last 5years. It was windy on the outside and smooth on the inside. The same kelp cycle has occurred at Mavericks as well with kelp so thick you can't swim through it.

I had gone to San Diego to participate in a gathering for Pipeline to a Cure for the battle against Cystic Fibrosis. All who attended had a chance to SUP with instruction from one of the best, Dave Kalama.

I decided to do the coast drive up 101 instead of 5. We saw south swell following us all the way up the coast. Sure enough it was here in HMB when we awoke Monday morning. I was so busy I didn't get in the water intil the last hour before dark. The best day I have seen in years was yesterday. The jetty had 6 to 8 foot A frame peaks and was really consistent.

The highlight of the day was picking up Greg and Laura Noll at the airport and driving down the coast through Pacifica to Princeton. We drove to the jetty, managed to see one of the best sets of the day. Legendary surfer Greg Noll is in town for the inaugural Mavericks Film Festival this week. His film, "Search for Surf" will be one of the films shown at the event, starting tonight at the Oceano Hotel in Princeton by the Sea. Greg and Laura really like the Oceano Hotel, which sits right on the harbor with easy walking to the Pier and restaraunts (and Mavericks Surf Shop). Greg has fished the West Coast for years after he put surfing on the back burner and shared some great stories about navigating through giant storm surf into the Pillar Point harbor at night. He'll be sharing more stories and doing a Q&A at the film festival, so be there if you can.

take care,jeff

Six Week Check Up

Rolled up to UCSF to see Dr. Vail to have him give me the litmus test. I did some range of motion stretches that I couldn't do before. He said, "I think you're way ahead of the curve." Stoked. We talked about surfing, and Cassandra showed him a video of the surf we had over the weekend. He was happy to see his work going to good use.

We are off today to Newport to do a paddle for Pipeline to a Cure. Dave Kalama, Mickey & Peggy Munoz, Jericho Popler, Jason Lezak (Olympic gold swimmer) and others will be there to support the battle against Cystic Fibrosis. Studies have shown that saltwater helps the lungs and provides relief for those with cystic fibrosis, and so surfing is a natural way to reach out to those with the disease, have some fun and find relief until there is a cure. We went to one of their fundraising events last year and it was amazing to see the strength of those fighting that battle. It was inspiring to see the drive and spirit it takes to deal with this disease every day of life.

I must say it makes what I have dealt with seem so insignificant.

Everyone stay safe and get some of the new south that is hitting the coast right now.
Will be back up for the Mavericks Film Festival at the Oceano Resort in Half Moon Bay on the 17th. Check it out. Greg Noll and I will be there to greet guest.
All the best, jeff

South Swell

Woke up to a nice south swell on Friday morning. I couldn't help myself...first time in the water in 39 days. We surfed a really fun south facing reef on our stand up paddle boards. It is the best for me because I can't do the jump up like I want to. The risk of the unknown or unthinkable happening is much greater riding a short board.

My first wave felt like riding my old favorite bicycle. I wish I could say that I eased into the first bottom turn to see what it felt like on my new hardware that is in the right hip, but no, I went out into the flat from the peak and powered a bottom turn straight up into the lip. No problem, so stoked!!

I actually don't have any regrets about doing the surgery. The work Dr. Vail did at UCSF on my hip is great, and I can feel the progression every couple of days with things like range of motion that I didn't have before. Lance Harriman at Potrero Physical Therapy and their staff are working me over, making sure I am getting the hard to get to muscles strong. I am also benefiting from the work that The Holistic Health Center and Hide Minami have done on me. He is an accupuncturist that works on some of the bay area's highest profile professional athletes. He is very good.

The swell filled in on Saturday, and we surfed for another 3 hrs. It feels good to be that sore. Surfed with my wife Cassandra and my son Kevin. I was still on the SUP board. The waves were about 6ft on the face when the sets came through. Hope everyone got some.

Heading for my six-week check up today. I think I am ahead of the curve on the recovery, just have to pace myself. Slow and sure is the best bet, unless the waves are really good.

jeff

Getting in the water

Talked to Palo Alto Research Foundation yesterday, about the science of waves. It took me a moment to settle into my opening thoughts because we watched a clip of Mavericks going off. I got so amped about the waves that I was watching that it kind of scattered me for a bit. So stoked to have no pain in my hip. Going out Stand Up Paddling with my wife Cassandra this morning for the first time since the surgery. It will be 39 days since salt water on my skin but who's counting.
I think we will be taking the Go Pro to give you a visual report.

Distractions........I can do more

Sorry for my lagging on the posting. I have just been getting more active each day, which I do push a little, so when I get some dinner and start to chill, I am wiped out. Then it is off to the races again the next morning.
My son Kevin was here at the house doing some work for us. When he finished he said,"it is time for your work out." We went through his warm up that he does with all his clients (he was recently certified as a personal trainer) before he starts a work out with them. We finished the warm up and moved into the garage where I have a Total Gym, a Pull Up/Dip/Push Up/Knee Raiser tower. Next to that is a spin cycle. His style of training is Cross Fit, which uses more reps than bulk. It also utilizes your own body weight during the drills. The Total Gym is what I used to rehab my back fusion 7yrs ago. It is doing well. There is so much you can do on the Total Gym with such ease, it is my favorite as far as equipment goes. We are really working on the core strength to stabilize the back and the legs, relieving fatigue and stress.
I have noticed over the last week that my right leg is coming along well. I can put socks and shoes on that foot by myself. If the flexibility continues at the rate that I am going, I may hit my full range of motion in 3 months no problem.
I can say that I am seeing the direct results from the training that I am doing. The body will respond faster than you think, it is up to you to give it a chance. Go For It....you wont be disappointed. - jeff

Stronger by the day

Sticking to the routine of physical therapy is paying dividends. I am walking and climbing hills. Spending time in the morning on the spin cycle is giving me the flexibility to put on my own socks. Ha! I am going to get in the water as soon as I can put a bootie on my right foot without help (putting on a 5mm bootie is not an easy task when you're in pain).

I've been able to check in at my surf shop and help customers choose the right board. I shape my own boards, ranging from Mavericks Big Wave Guns and fun guns to short boards, from longboards to the Flying Fish (pictured here). The Flying Fish model that I shape seems to be the best seller for the smaller summer surf. It looks retro, but I put a single-to-double -concave bottom with a double wing swallow tail. Add the glass Speed Dialer fins and you've got a magic carpet for the summer. I can't shape boards for a while during this recovery, as it puts a lot of pressure on the joint and I can't stand for that long yet. I'm looking forward to getting back to work in the shaping room sometime soon.

Lately my son Kevin (25 yrs old) has picked up windsurfing, which has got me pretty stoked to get back into it. Back in '83 the first Windsurfing World Cup came to San Francisco, and the wave sailing event was held at Waddell Creek. I spent a week watching guys rip waves apart on small sail boards. I got into it and did almost all of the sailing events from here to Santa Barbara. The '84 O'Niell Classic, one of my favorites, was a 17-mile race in the SF Bay on a sailboard. It was summer time and blown out small surf, so this was a great option to surfing.

I can't wait to get back in the water.

All the best to those who are following this blog,jeff

Schulz Family Foundation Fundraiser

Spent a couple of days in the sun of Santa Rosa helping to raise funds for charity. The golf tournament was a great turnout with the likes of actor/surfer Gregory Harrison (my personal favorite), Cheryl Ladd, Goldie Hawn, Kurt Russell, Greg Itzin, Jim Plunkett, Dwight Clark, Jerry Rice, Jim Harbough, Tommy Smothers, Cheech Marin, among others who turned out to raise funds for Sonoma Children's Charities. I look forward to getting in the water soon with Greg Harrison, who can surf. I may have had a little too much fun at the Schulz event at Mayacama Country Club. The body is feeling the effects of too much activity (a little putting and chipping, and maybe a couple of swings I shouldn't have taken).

Today I spent the morning in the acupuncture studio. Hide Minami of the Holistic Health Center is the man. Hide also is a Mavericks regular. I have seen Hide over the years and results are second to none. After examination again he asked how much coffee I drink as it relates to the tight tendons and muscles. He told me if I quit I may cut my recovery time by one third. Out with the coffee!! He said my liver is healthier than the last time I was seen, that is a direct effect of quitting drinking. He also gave me Milk Thistle to strengthen my liver because I am still on some pain meds.
I have been given my recovery orders and am going to stick to them.

Off to the city for PT with Lance Harriman in the morning.

The surf is good today, but I am not going to think about it.

thanks,jeff
ps: Hi Greg