Getting Busy

It seems the more active I get the less time I spend in front of the computer. Went to San Diego last week to work on some new boards. We hit that last south swell head on. SUP'd some of the reefs in Encinitas. It seems that the kelp has come back with a vengeance over the last 5years. It was windy on the outside and smooth on the inside. The same kelp cycle has occurred at Mavericks as well with kelp so thick you can't swim through it.

I had gone to San Diego to participate in a gathering for Pipeline to a Cure for the battle against Cystic Fibrosis. All who attended had a chance to SUP with instruction from one of the best, Dave Kalama.

I decided to do the coast drive up 101 instead of 5. We saw south swell following us all the way up the coast. Sure enough it was here in HMB when we awoke Monday morning. I was so busy I didn't get in the water intil the last hour before dark. The best day I have seen in years was yesterday. The jetty had 6 to 8 foot A frame peaks and was really consistent.

The highlight of the day was picking up Greg and Laura Noll at the airport and driving down the coast through Pacifica to Princeton. We drove to the jetty, managed to see one of the best sets of the day. Legendary surfer Greg Noll is in town for the inaugural Mavericks Film Festival this week. His film, "Search for Surf" will be one of the films shown at the event, starting tonight at the Oceano Hotel in Princeton by the Sea. Greg and Laura really like the Oceano Hotel, which sits right on the harbor with easy walking to the Pier and restaraunts (and Mavericks Surf Shop). Greg has fished the West Coast for years after he put surfing on the back burner and shared some great stories about navigating through giant storm surf into the Pillar Point harbor at night. He'll be sharing more stories and doing a Q&A at the film festival, so be there if you can.

take care,jeff

Six Week Check Up

Rolled up to UCSF to see Dr. Vail to have him give me the litmus test. I did some range of motion stretches that I couldn't do before. He said, "I think you're way ahead of the curve." Stoked. We talked about surfing, and Cassandra showed him a video of the surf we had over the weekend. He was happy to see his work going to good use.

We are off today to Newport to do a paddle for Pipeline to a Cure. Dave Kalama, Mickey & Peggy Munoz, Jericho Popler, Jason Lezak (Olympic gold swimmer) and others will be there to support the battle against Cystic Fibrosis. Studies have shown that saltwater helps the lungs and provides relief for those with cystic fibrosis, and so surfing is a natural way to reach out to those with the disease, have some fun and find relief until there is a cure. We went to one of their fundraising events last year and it was amazing to see the strength of those fighting that battle. It was inspiring to see the drive and spirit it takes to deal with this disease every day of life.

I must say it makes what I have dealt with seem so insignificant.

Everyone stay safe and get some of the new south that is hitting the coast right now.
Will be back up for the Mavericks Film Festival at the Oceano Resort in Half Moon Bay on the 17th. Check it out. Greg Noll and I will be there to greet guest.
All the best, jeff

South Swell

Woke up to a nice south swell on Friday morning. I couldn't help myself...first time in the water in 39 days. We surfed a really fun south facing reef on our stand up paddle boards. It is the best for me because I can't do the jump up like I want to. The risk of the unknown or unthinkable happening is much greater riding a short board.

My first wave felt like riding my old favorite bicycle. I wish I could say that I eased into the first bottom turn to see what it felt like on my new hardware that is in the right hip, but no, I went out into the flat from the peak and powered a bottom turn straight up into the lip. No problem, so stoked!!

I actually don't have any regrets about doing the surgery. The work Dr. Vail did at UCSF on my hip is great, and I can feel the progression every couple of days with things like range of motion that I didn't have before. Lance Harriman at Potrero Physical Therapy and their staff are working me over, making sure I am getting the hard to get to muscles strong. I am also benefiting from the work that The Holistic Health Center and Hide Minami have done on me. He is an accupuncturist that works on some of the bay area's highest profile professional athletes. He is very good.

The swell filled in on Saturday, and we surfed for another 3 hrs. It feels good to be that sore. Surfed with my wife Cassandra and my son Kevin. I was still on the SUP board. The waves were about 6ft on the face when the sets came through. Hope everyone got some.

Heading for my six-week check up today. I think I am ahead of the curve on the recovery, just have to pace myself. Slow and sure is the best bet, unless the waves are really good.

jeff

Getting in the water

Talked to Palo Alto Research Foundation yesterday, about the science of waves. It took me a moment to settle into my opening thoughts because we watched a clip of Mavericks going off. I got so amped about the waves that I was watching that it kind of scattered me for a bit. So stoked to have no pain in my hip. Going out Stand Up Paddling with my wife Cassandra this morning for the first time since the surgery. It will be 39 days since salt water on my skin but who's counting.
I think we will be taking the Go Pro to give you a visual report.